Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil
The details
Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil (aka sacha inchi oil) is a plant oil that is 80-90% polyunsaturated fatty acids. These fatty acids are split pretty evenly between alpha-linoleic acid and linoleic acid . On skin, it is an emollient and barrier helper since linoleic acid feeds into your skin's own lipid barrier. A 14 day human study found its moisturizing performance matched olive oil and tested as mild/low irritation on skin tissue. It also showed gentle anti-inflammatory + antioxidant activity, plus the ability to stop Staphylococcus aureus (a bacteria tied to breakouts and eczema flares) from sticking to skin. The concentration for this oil is flexible and can range from a few percent in serums up to 100% as a facial oil. Since this ingredient is a triglyceride oil loaded with fatty acids that Malassezia can feed on, it may not be fungal acne safe. Allergy-wise, the risk is low. Despite having the nicknames "Inca peanut" or "mountain peanut", this ingredient is not actually a peanut or tree nut. However, allergy to the seeds does exist so patch test if your skin is reactive.
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Also listed as
plukenetia volubilis seed oil