Brassica Campestris Sterols

Irritancy: unknownComedogenicity: unknownEmollient

The details

This ingredient is the sterol fraction pulled out of rapeseed (or field mustard) oil. It's the waxy, cholesterol-like part of the oil. That cholesterol-like part matters because the molecules are structurally close cousins of the cholesterol your own skin makes. Cholesterol is one of the three lipids (along with ceramides and fatty acids) that hold your skin barrier together. So the plant sterols (like this one) do the same job: they integrate into the barrier and mimic the skin's natural lipids, which helps it hold onto water. There's some decent evidence too: A tape stripping study found skin treated with a phyosterol formulation recovered barrier function noticeably faster than skin treated with the vehicle alone. Phytosterols also show anti-inflammatory activity which is why they appear often in soothing and anti-aging creams. Usage concentrations vary according to industry survey data; leave-on products go up to 7% and rinse-off products up to 0.13%. Actual face products usually use lower amounts (0.1-2%), partly because sterols are waxy and don't dissolve easily. A human repeat insult patch test of 100% pure sterols in 50 subjects produced no irritation/sensitization, and guinea pig maximization testing was also negative. The CIR Expert Panel has also concluded the phytosterol ingredient group is safe at current use concentrations. Fungal acne note: Sterols are not fatty acids and the yeast makes its own sterols anyway, so this ingredient doesn't feed it (it is fungal acne safe).